Showing posts with label 1975. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1975. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Disassembling of a Hitachi carburetor for a 1975/1973 Datsun 620 truck, DCH340

This post is to document the disassembling of a carburetor for my 1975 Datsun 620 truck. I am assuming I currently have in my possession a Hitachi DCH340 Carburetor that was originally equiped on a 1973 Datsun 620 truck.
I purchased the 1975 Datsun 620 truck with an unknown carburetor installed and running. There are no numbers on the carburetor for me to cross reference it to a part. I ended up buying a used one from a wrecking yard and I removed it from a 1973 Datsun 620 truck. After doing some research I concluded that I needed a carburetor gasket kit for a 1973 or 1974 Datsun 620. I purchased the one for a 1973. Please view this post for information on how I got to this conclusion.

NOTE: I will be giving some parts wrong names (to the best of my habilities), but close to what I want to describe in the pictures. I am new to carburetors so if you read any misleading names or information please let me know.

1973 Datsun 620 carburetor
Figure1: Carburetor side view A
 In figure 1 two main parts are facing towards the camera: the carburetor choke pull off, and a temperature/pressure operated valve (of some sorts, please give it a name, evaporator perhaps?). There is also an idle solenoid attached to it.
Figure 2: Carburetor side view B
 In figure 2 the fuel filter inlet tube, fuel bowl (screen), and replaceable pump (on the left) are visible facing the camera.

Figure 3: Carburetor side view C
 In figure 3 the throttle linkage is visible. This linkage is composed of a main bracket directly attached to the top cold starting butterfly (throttle used for cold starts). It also has a thick piece of wire attached to the main bracket on the far left, a spring pulling the main bracket down, the replaceable pump on the far right. An adjusting screw is visible below the main bracket, on the bottom piece of the carburetor. Also, note that this bottom piece, or "feet", have to vacuum tubes coming out of it. One is plugged, and the other one runs somewhere to the engine.
Figure 4: Carburetor side view D
 Figure 4 shows the diaphragm chassis or enclosure, the choke pull off (looks like a fuel pressure regulator on modern cars), and the automatic (electric) choke.
Figure 5: Carburetor top view
 Figure 5 shows the top of the carburetor. Nothing very special here.
Figure 6: Linkage for throttle E
 Figure 6 shows throttle E shaft attachments. I am calling throttle E the throttle plate attached to the throttle shaft viewed here, the one attached to the bracket where the throttle cable attaches to. Also, in this picture one of the adjusting bolts is visible.
Linkage F will be the one where the the diaphragm link attaches to.
Figure 6-a
 Figure 6-a shows another view of the throttle shaft E attachments.
Figure 7: Lock for the Main Bracket
 This pictures show the parts that came off the main bracket throttling shaft, the shaft where the main throttling bracket pivots on. It shows the parts and the order in which they were removed.
Figure 8: Throttling linkage, thick wire parts
 Figure 8 shows the order in which the parts removed from the thick wire link were removed in. This thick wire link is also attached to the main throttling bracket on its left hand side which is out of view.
Figure 9: Throttle shaft E disassembled parts
Figure 9 shows the disassembled parts from throttle E shaft in the order in which they were removed. This also shows the bottom of the carburetor, or its "feet".
Figure 10: Throttle E shaft
Figure 10 shows the shaft E for the throttle having more parts inside. They do not stop at part 6 as shown in figure 9. Also the shaft where the diaphragm link is attached to is also shown.
Figure 11
In figure 11 the "feet" (bottom) of the carburetor assembly is visible. Also, note that part 6 on the piece of paper has a direction, in and out, where "in" is going into the assembly.

Figure 12: Solenoid valve
Figure 12 shows the Anti-dieseling solenoid valve. This is the valve or long nut that has a wire at the tip. This also shows the link that goes from the electric choke to another shaft that goes to the carburetor's "body". This link looks like a thick metal wire.

Figure 13: Automatic choke link
Figure 13 shows the automatic (electric) choke link being disassembled. Note that there are also another two or three pieces still attached to the throttle shaft E, but we won't worry about these yet.
Figure 14: Parts disassembled from automatic choke link
Figure 14 shows the parts removed from the shaft that holds one end of the automatic choke link. These are also shown in the order in which they were removed.
Figure 15: Parts removed
Figure 15 shows the parts removed from the automatic choke and the other three pieces left behind on the throttle shaft E. These are also shown in the order in which they were removed.
Figure 16: Diaphragm link attachment
Figure 16 shows the diaphragm linkage on the carburetor. Note the short shaft on the linkage. The spring pictured in Figure 15 is attached through a hole to this short shaft coming out of the bracket.
Figure 17: Choke pull off
Figure 17 shows the choke pull off and the point where this one is attached to another link.
Figure 18: Diaphragm assembly
Figure 18 shows the bolts and diaphragm assembly corresponding to the diaphragm assembly.
Figure 19: Calibration mark
Figure 19 shows a small mark on my automatic choke. I did not put much attention to it at first, but I am now assuming this is the original position of the mark with respect to the line where the pen point is touching. I believe you are supposed to adjust this knob to either rich or lean fuel by loosening the bolts and then turning the knob. Note that here the bolts are already loose, which means that this mark could be off, but its a starting point.
Figure 20: Automatic choke, removed
Figure 20 shows the inside of the automatic choke once it is removed off the carburetor "body". If you've been reading "head", "body", and "feet" throughout the article, it refers to the three big parts remaining of the carburetor once everything else has been removed. I will show a picture later.
Figure 20-a: small beads
Figure 20-a shows small beads inside the automatic choke that were inside when I opened it. I don't know what they are or why they were inside, but I accidentally dropped them all to the floor. I was not planning on leaving them in there anyways.
Figure 21: Automatic choke link
Figure 21 shows the automatic choke link connected at the bottom of the remaining housing part for the automatic choke. I believe this link had only a pin through its eye when I took it off.
Figure 22: Choke pull off link
Figure 22 shows the link connecting the choke pull off and the automatic choke. Although it looks like a washer, I believe it only has a pin at the end of the automatic choke. Also note that the link from Figure 21 comes out of the hole to the right of the one shown in Figure 22, on the same bracket.
Figure 22-a: Automatic choke link
Figure 22-a shows the link connecting the automatic choke and the choke pull off.
Figure 23: Automatic choke holders
Figure 23 shows the three small brackets or holders holding the automatic choke in place so that its knob does not move to a more rich or more lean fuel. These should be installed concave down, as it reads on the paper.

Figure 24: Choke pull off
Figure 24 shows what is left of the choke pull off before disconnecting the vacuum line to remove the entire assembly.


Figure 25: Replaceable valve
Figure 25 shows the replaceable valve that comes in the carburetor kits. This is here to show the order of the parts.
Figure 25-a: Replaceable pump disassembled
Figure 25-a shows the disassembled pump from Figure 25.
Figure 26: Fuel bowl
Figure 26 shows the fuel bowl after the glass has been removed. There is a float inside. Also, on the same shaft where the float there is a short tube at the end, this can be easily misplaced.
Figure 26-a: Fuel bowl
Figure 26-a shows the float removed from the carburetor bowl. Also note that the small tube has been removed to exposing the shaft which is not serviceable. The small tube is in front of the float.

Figure 27: Automatic choke
Figure 27 shows the automatic choke coil.


Figure 28: Carburetor jets
Figure 28 shows the jets and other bolts from the carburetor. This will be useful when removing the jets.
Figure 29: Evaporator/temperature/pressure valve
Figure 29 shows the evaporator or temperature/pressure valve removed. In order to remove it the bolts shown had to be removed. Note that the order in which these were arranged on the floor is the order in which these go back into the valve. Do not disassemble the valve any further, I think there are no gaskets for it in the kit.


Figure 30: Fuel plugs
Fgure 30 shows the plugs underneath the fuel bowl. These are covering one fuel jet each.

Monday, July 29, 2013

Removing the Bumper on a 1975 Datsun 620

I was removing the fender from my truck and I got stuck. I had to remove the bumper first before removing the fender. So I looked all around the truck and was not able to find where the bumper was anchored. I ended up finding four bolts, two on the driver and two on the passenger side.

The two missing bolts are the ones that I removed. Here you see the radiator hose going into the radiator. Just look down, they are right there. Remove all four and the bumper comes out. Oh, and don't  forget the bolt attached to the fender on each side. These should be in there but might not be necessary to have.

Look at the bumper on the driver side. It has a small hole, this is where the bolt goes in that attaches to the fenders.


Monday, July 22, 2013

1975 Datsun 620 PCV valve

I have recently installed the pcv valve on my 1975 Datsun 620 truck, and I can say I was a bit confused. I thought the pcv valve (for some reason) was located right on top of the valve cover of my engine (L20B). I tried to remove it and found out it was an empty tube. I was shocked. I did a little bit of research online and found out that this thing is located below the carburator. Please take a look at the picture below. It is pointing to the PCV valve which has a rubber hose attached to it fastened with a clamp. It is hidden.


I removed the hose and exposed the valve. You can see me turning the PCV valve with a wrench here:


I bought it at Autozone, and the part number is PCV1142


Thursday, July 18, 2013

Datsun 620 fuel filter problem

So I just got my 1975 Datsun and have put fuel in it twice. The first time I put in $10 from the gas station down the street, turned the truck on, and drove home. The second time I put $20 from the Chevron across town, turn it on, the truck shut off on my way home, turned it back on and struggled to get home driving. I finally made it. I looked under my hood and I have no fuel filter! I won't drive it anymore until this is fixed.

Also, my engine will not stay on unless I keep pressing the gas pedal, so there must be something clogging my carburetor.

This picture is from a forum but shows the location of the fuel filter, right there by the corner of the battery.



Mine has a piece of tube which I don't think does that great of a job (See picture below).





Here is a picture of the fuel system I found online:
This is how my system looks installed:
The filter is attached to the inlet of the mechanical fuel pump as shown. Please do not make the same mistake I did and think the fuel pump was inside the tank. The thing shown here is the mechanical fuel pump. It is mechanical, not electrical.

This is a closer look:
The part number is FF3402DL and I found it at Autozone 

Use hoses that are 1/4 inch in diameter (inner diameter), I accidentally bought 5/16 and was too loose. 1/4 is perfect.

Also look at this previous picture (the one with the filter). Please somebody tell me if you have managed to have the transparent tank more than halfways full. I expected it to be full but I either get 1/4 of the transparent tank or 1/2, but never full. Is this normal?

This is the filter while empty.

Also I learned about a pre-filter system or pre filter. I found one at Autozone but they call it "performance" fuel filter. its just a fuel filter in their performance isle which you can remove the inside filter. When I buy it I'll post it here.

Also, note that I was expecting the fuel pressure to shoot fuel out of the lines when disconnecting them. This did not happen. The mechanical pump sucks fuel from the tank, and does not push it. There is not pressure accumulated in the line where the filter is attached to. Please slap me for that. Just disconect the lines, don't be afraid

By the way, I fixed my problem. Im sure it was the fuel filter, but while I was at it, I ended up replacing the plugs, oil and oil filter, and even adding an additive to the fuel (Mystery Oil). Oh, and I broke my breather hose. I need a new one.

How to change the Breather filter on a 1975 Datsun 620

This post is about how I changed the Breather filter on my Datsun. If you have any questions please let me know. This is also the first thing I've documented on my truck.


I replaced the filter or sponge that captures the oil that leaves the valve cover going into the air filter tray. I bought it at Autozone and had to cut a small piece so it would fit:
 The part number on it is BF1209DL.
Here you can see the old sponge filter full of old oil. Also, you can see the leftover piece of sponge, and the new one installed. The new sponge is more fat, so I had to stuff it in the small compartment gently using my scissors.

I originally made the mistake of calling the metal tube coming out of the valve cover a "PCV valve". Please note that this is incorrect. It is the "Breather Tube". I have read that you can just attach a small filter at the end to fix it if you ever brake it. Please read this on the Ratsun forums:
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43794-help-with-an-l20b-breather-question/